A big question that we often get is: When should I replace my clutch? The obvious answer to that would be...when it starts to slip! Once it slips, there's no coming back and it needs to be replaced before it becomes an issue. However, the not so obvious answer would be - How many miles are on your current clutch, and what are you future plans? Read on to see when it may be a good idea to replace your clutch before it slips!
Friday, April 13, 2018
Tuesday, February 27, 2018
The cost of cheap work is always more than what you originally pay. What does that mean? It means you can pay $100 for cheap work today, but you'll end up paying $300 or more down the road to fix the job correctly, because it wasn't done right the first time. Unfortunately we see these issues a lot here at our shop. Sometimes it's just a headache for the owner of a car and a lighter wallet to get something repaired or replaced, but sometimes what we see is downright dangerous and can cause more than just a headache...read on to see why!
Thursday, February 22, 2018
We just finished up a clutch install and throwout bearing replacement on a customers' Scion FR-S. The throwout / release bearing failure is a very common issue that we see on many Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ factory cars. The bearing itself is weak, and it will fail, which can cause clutch judder and noise, or a complete failure of the system that renders the car inoperable. This car was towed in to our shop and we got right to work fixing it up. Read on to see why this issue happens, how to fix it, and how to avoid making it worse!
Monday, February 19, 2018
It was a very eventful 2017 Autocross season for our sponsored driver, Justin McDonald, who not only took home first place in the SMST4 class overall, but also took home the trophy for the 2017 Prepared Class Champion! Not to mention he received the Mercury Award and grabbed a total of FOUR Top Time of Day awards!
Tuesday, December 19, 2017
Previously we installed the meat and potatoes of the Full-Race turbo kit including the turbo itself, exhaust piping, FMIC, and a few other goodies (Which we covered in PART 1). With everything in the engine bay looking good we moved to the interior of the car to get the gauges and boost control working.